Kieren perrow biography of william

This interview was recorded during a break in the Tahiti contest some years ago, but contained within, is a candour perhaps not available now given his high-profile position within the sport. Fear is never too far from the surface. You will fluctuate from being shit-scared to feeling totally high. I discovered I got off on big waves on my first trip to Hawaii.

Sunset was 10 foot, perfect. Margo Brenden Margieson faded me and my board was too big but after a few hammerings I realised I was enjoying the power. In , I nearly gave the pro surfing thing away. I missed the WCT cut by two spots. I was in tears.

Professional surfer on the elite WSL Championship Tour, co-developing products and executing brand ambassador functions as a sponsored athlete.

But I came back. Came back without the feeling that I deserved it. I felt like I had something to prove in surfing. No one thought I could qualify. I was never a stand-out. I was never being touted as the Next Big Thing. My year on tour I finished seventh. It was the third best rookie result ever, behind Kelly Slater and Mick Fanning.